Exfoliating Acids · Expert Care

AHA, BHA, PHA Peels — Which One to Choose for Your Skin (and How Not to Overdo It)

Three letters, three completely different mechanisms of action — yet most clients reach for an acid "because a friend recommended it" or "because it had the highest concentration on the label." We explain how AHA, BHA, and PHA really differ, which skin types they work best for, and why exfoliation only makes sense when done thoughtfully, not in haste.

Expert Care·read 9 min·J'ADORE INSTYTUT

Acid peels are now one of the most commonly purchased skincare products — and one of the most frequently misused. The label proudly displays the percentage and name of the acid, but rarely explains what that letter actually means for specific skin types. Meanwhile, AHA, BHA, and PHA are three different molecules, three different depths of action, and three different groups of skin problems. A properly chosen acid can even out skin tone, reduce pores, and lighten discolorations. Randomly chosen — it often ends in irritation, dryness, and the belief that "acids don't work for me."

AHA, BHA, PHA — Three Letters, Three Completely Different Mechanisms

The difference between these three groups of acids is not just about strength — it primarily concerns solubility and molecule size, which determines where and how deeply the acid works.

• AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids) — water-soluble, work on the surface of the epidermis, loosening the bonds between dead cells. This group includes glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids. Glycolic has the smallest molecule among AHA, allowing it to penetrate the deepest and provide the most visible brightening and smoothing effect — but it also irritates the most easily. Lactic works more gently and additionally hydrates, as it is a natural component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. Mandelic has the largest molecule among AHA, which means it penetrates the slowest and shallowest — it is the mildest acid in this group, a good starting point for those beginning their exfoliation journey.
• BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) — practically refers to salicylic acid. Unlike AHA, it is fat-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deep into pores filled with sebum, dissolving oil plugs and acting anti-inflammatory. It is the only one of the three acids that actually "cleans" inside the pores, not just on the skin's surface.
• PHA (polyhydroxy acids) — gluconolactone and lactobionic acid have significantly larger molecules than AHA acids, so they penetrate more slowly and shallowly. Additionally, they have moisturizing and antioxidant properties. This is the mildest of the three groups — a good choice for sensitive, vascular skin and for anyone just starting to use acids.

Which Acid for Which Skin Problem — A Quick Reference Table

How to Choose an Acid Peel for Your Skin

Choosing an acid is the answer to one specific skin problem, not a matter of fashion or the highest concentration on the shelf:

• Discolorations and uneven skin tone — AHA, primarily glycolic or lactic, works best. For those prone to post-inflammatory discolorations or with darker skin tones, mandelic acid may be a safer choice — it works more slowly but with a lower risk of irritation, which can itself trigger a new discolored spot.
• Oily, acne-prone skin with enlarged pores — BHA (salicylic acid) reigns here, as it is the only one of the three acids that penetrates pores and dissolves the sebum trapped inside.
• Sensitive, vascular, atopic skin or "first time with acids" — definitely PHA. Its large molecule and additional moisturizing action make it the safest start, even for skin that previously reacted poorly to exfoliation.
• Combination skin with multiple problems at once — you can opt for a product combining low concentrations of several acids, but the principle of introduction remains the same: one new active ingredient at a time, observe the skin's reaction, and only then take the next step.

PHA Enzyme Granule Peels PowderEnzymatic-granular peeling from the PHA family — a gentle introduction to exfoliationView Product → Papaya Granule Peels ULTRA5Granular-enzymatic peeling with papain — for normal and combination skinView Product → Sens-Age Md Ag RegeneratingRegenerating cream-gel with glycolic acid (AHA) — night careView Product →

How to Start — Frequency and Order in Your Routine

Not all acids are equal, but the principle of introduction is common for the entire group: start with 1–2 times a week, in the evening, and observe your skin for at least two weeks before increasing the frequency. Skin that tolerates the acid well — without burning, excessive peeling, or redness lasting more than an hour — can gradually move to more frequent use.

The order in your evening routine: cleansing → acid peel → moisturizing or regenerating cream. Acid should not be applied to damp, heated skin after treatment or to freshly shaved or scraped surfaces — the risk of irritation is significantly higher there.

A separate, key rule: do not combine acid and retinol on the same evening. Both act on the same layer of skin and together drastically increase the risk of irritation, dryness, and damage to the skin barrier. If your routine includes both ingredients, it is safest to separate them on different days of the week — for example, acid on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, retinol on Tuesday and Thursday — or consult a specialist for a detailed schedule.

And a rule that has no exceptions: after acids, sunscreen is mandatory the next day. Freshly exfoliated skin has a thinner protective layer and is much more susceptible to sunburn and post-inflammatory discolorations — even if the peel was used in the evening and not just before going out in the sun.

Common Mistakes with Home Acid Peels

• Using it daily "because I'll see results faster" — this is the surest way to dryness and damage to the skin barrier. The effect of acids accumulates over time, not in the number of applications per week.
• Combining several strong active ingredients at once — acid, retinol, and high-concentration vitamin C in one routine is a recipe for irritation, not faster results.
• Skipping sunscreen the day after a home treatment — without SPF, the risk of discoloration increases instead of decreasing.
• Reaching for the strongest available acid right away, instead of giving the skin time to adapt from a milder formula.
• Applying acid to irritated or damaged skin — during active inflammation, fresh wounds, or right after a treatment in the office, exfoliation should be postponed until the skin barrier has regenerated.

Home Peeling vs. Treatment in the Office — They Are Not the Same

A product for home use and a peel performed in a cosmetic or medical office differ not only in the concentration of the acid. Home peels work at lower, safe concentrations for self-application, and their effect builds gradually, week after week. Office peels are controlled procedures — the choice of concentration, pH control, exposure time on the skin, and neutralization are conducted by a specialist who continuously assesses the skin's reaction. It is this control, not just the name of the acid on the label, that determines the difference in effect and risk.

Therefore, a home peel with the same acid as an office treatment will not yield the same results — and that is not its purpose. Well-designed home care supports and prolongs the effects of treatments but does not replace procedures conducted under the supervision of a cosmetologist, especially for deeper skin issues such as severe discolorations or acne scars.

Frequently Asked Questions

This material is educational and does not replace a cosmetic consultation or medical advice. The choice of acid, its concentration, and frequency of use should be consulted with a specialist — especially for sensitive, vascular skin, during pregnancy, or directly after office treatments. The photos depict original products available in our store.