Glass test: Press the glass firmly against the area — observe under pressure:
PIH vs PIE — Fundamental Difference
- Feature: Color — **PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation): Brown, dark brown, gray — PIE (Post-Inflammatory Erythema):** Pink, red, purple
- Feature: Mechanism — **PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation): Overproduction of melanin by melanocytes — PIE (Post-Inflammatory Erythema):** Dilated capillaries after inflammation
- Feature: Glass test — **PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation): DOES NOT fade under pressure — PIE (Post-Inflammatory Erythema):** Fades under pressure (vascular)
- Feature: Who is more affected — **PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation): Dark skin types (III–VI) — PIE (Post-Inflammatory Erythema):** Light skin types (I–III)
- Feature: Time to resolve without treatment — **PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation): Months – 2 years — PIE (Post-Inflammatory Erythema):** Months – 1 year
- Feature: Treatment — **PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation): Depigmenting agents + SPF — PIE (Post-Inflammatory Erythema):** Vascular treatment (laser, DYE-VL)
How to check if it's PIH or PIE?
Glass test: Press the glass firmly against the area — observe under pressure:
- Fades → PIE (vascular — erythema)
- Does not fade → PIH (melanin — hyperpigmentation)
Treatments at J'ADORE
For PIH (brown spots after acne)
#### Cosmelan — Depigmentation Protocol
The most effective outpatient method for PIH. Azelaic + kojic + phytic acid → inhibiting melanogenesis at several stages.
Protocol:
- 1 session + home cream for 6–12 months
- Significant improvement after 4–6 weeks
For whom: PIH of all shades, oily/mixed skin, dark skin types
#### BHA + AHA Peeling — Regular Lightening
A series of peels with salicylic, mandelic, or glycolic acid:
- BHA 20–30% — penetrates pores, removes melanin layer
- AHA 30–50% — accelerates exfoliation, lightening
Series: 4–6 treatments every 2–3 weeks.
#### PRX-T33 — Brightening Biorevitalization
TCA 33% + H2O2 + kojic acid → does not exfoliate superficially but stimulates skin renewal from within. Effect: lightening + improving skin quality + minimal scaling.
For whom: PIH + skin laxity, mature skin
#### Dermapen — Fractional Mesotherapy for PIH
Microneedling → activation of own fibroblasts + possibility of introducing lightening ingredients (vitamin C, niacinamide) directly into the spot of hyperpigmentation.
For PIE (red/pink marks after acne)
#### DYE-VL (Harmony XL Pro) — Vascular Treatment
Dye-VL (vascular light technology) selectively closes dilated vessels → PIE gradually disappears.
Protocol: 3–5 sessions every 4 weeks.
For whom: Skin types I–III, red/pink marks
#### LED Therapy (blue + red) — Support
Red LED → healing, collagen building Blue LED → antibacterial, anti-inflammatory → reduces the inflammatory basis of PIE
Supplement to the DYE-VL series or peels.
Home Care — Essential Ingredients
For PIH (brown):
✅ SPF 50+ daily — MANDATORY, sun darkens PIH multiple times ✅ Niacinamide 5–10% — blocks melanosome transfer (one of the most studied) ✅ Azelaic acid 10–15% — inhibits tyrosinase ✅ Vitamin C (10–20%) — antioxidant + anti-melanogenic ✅ Retinol or retinal — accelerates cell turnover (removal of pigmented cells) ✅ Alpha-arbutin — inhibits tyrosinase ✅ Kojic acid — inhibits tyrosinase (at a concentration of 2–4%)
For PIE (red):
✅ Niacinamide 5–10% — anti-inflammatory ✅ Green tea (EGCG) — vascular antioxidant ✅ Centella asiatica (madecassoside) — healing and vessels ✅ SPF — mandatory (UVB exacerbates vascular condition) ✅ Gentle barrier — avoid irritating ingredients
What NOT to do?
❌ Do not squeeze pimples — mechanical trauma = greater inflammation = deeper PIH ❌ Do not use ABK (alcohol-benzyl-ketone) or aggressive alcohols — they exacerbate inflammation ❌ Do not use retinol WITHOUT SPF — without sun protection, retinol does not lighten PIH, it may worsen ❌ Do not use acids on skin with active inflammatory acne — irritation deepens PIH ❌ Do not expect immediate results — PIH takes months to treat
Realistic Expectations
- Degree of PIH: Fresh (< 3 months) — Treatment time: 4–8 weeks — Method: SPF + niacinamide + peeling
- Degree of PIH: Moderate (3–12 months) — Treatment time: 3–6 months — Method: Cosmelan or series of peels
- Degree of PIH: Old / dark (> 1 year) — Treatment time: 6–12+ months — Method: Cosmelan + laser + dermapen
