Mediderma and Sesderma — nanosomes, peels, and the fight against pigmentation

Mediderma by Sesderma · Spanish dermocosmetics

Sesderma and its professional line, Mediderma, are among those brands that cosmetologists know inside out, and clients primarily associate with the term "nanosomes." What does this actually mean, and why is this specific technology so effective at treating hyperpigmentation? We break it down to the basics — without the marketing fluff.

Who is behind it

The brand was founded by Dr. Gabriel Serrano — a Spanish dermatologist from Valencia, practicing since 1976 and the author of over 150 dermatological publications. He is the founder of the Sesderma and Mediderma laboratories. It is worth distinguishing between these two names:

• Sesderma — retail/pharmacy line for home care.
• Mediderma — the professional division "by Sesderma": medical peels, microneedling, and products for clinical use and post-treatment care.

Mediderma has a significant milestone in its history: it was the first company to introduce a complete line of chemical peels to the professional market. Today, the brand is present in over 60 countries.

Nanosomes — why it's not just a buzzword

The biggest problem with most active ingredients is not that they are weak — but that they do not reach where they need to, or they oxidize before they can take effect. Sesderma's liposomal nanotechnology addresses exactly this.

A nanosome is a very small phospholipid vesicle (in the range of 50–200 nanometers) whose structure resembles the skin's cell membranes. An active ingredient enclosed in such a vesicle gains several real advantages:

• Deeper penetration — the small size allows it to overcome the epidermal barrier better than in a classic formula.
• Better tolerance — a composition similar to cell membranes means a lower risk of irritation and effectiveness at lower concentrations.
• Gradual release — the active ingredient works longer, in "doses," instead of all at once.
• Stabilization — the capsule protects sensitive ingredients, such as retinol or vitamin C, from oxidation.

Sesderma has been developing NANOTECH technology since 2008. Penetration data comes from the manufacturer's studies — we treat them as the brand's technological premise, not as independent clinical proof.

Flagship ingredients

Mediderma and Sesderma are primarily brands focused on "hyperpigmentation and skin condition." Hence this specific set of signature actives:

• Azelaic acid — inhibits tyrosinase (the enzyme responsible for melanin production), has anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties. A pillar of the line.
• Tranexamic acid — one of the most effective ingredients for melasma and stubborn hyperpigmentation (you can find it, for example, in Mesoestetic Melan Tran3x).
• Retinol in nanosomes — renewal and work on photoaging, liposome-stabilized for better tolerance.
• 4-butylresorcinol and ascorbyl glucoside (vitamin C) — brightening and evening out skin tone.
• Exfoliating acids — glycolic, lactic, mandelic, salicylic, pyruvic, ferulic, TCA — in professional peels.

Mediderma peels

This is the most recognizable part of the professional offering. Below are the verified names (note: this is the Mediderma brand, not to be confused with competing "mesopeels"):

We consciously do not provide specific acid concentrations — they vary between variants, and choosing the strength of the peel is the role of the cosmetologist after assessing the skin. "Stronger" does not mean "better."

Hyperpigmentation and melasma — the brand's specialty

If you are struggling with hyperpigmentation, Sesderma/Mediderma is one of the first names that will come up in the clinic. The flagship retail product is Azelac RU — a liposomal serum combining azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, retinol, 4-butylresorcinol, and a vitamin C derivative.

However, there is one condition without which all the work goes to waste: photoprotection. Melasma intensifies under the influence of UVA radiation, so we apply the depigmenting serum in the evening and strictly use a high SPF 50+ filter during the day. Without this, hyperpigmentation returns — and often stronger.

Post-treatment care

After a peel or microneedling (the Nanopore system), the skin needs regeneration and protection. The brand has dedicated products for this, including NOMELAN C (epidermal regeneration with a depigmenting component) and the Fillderma set. Post-treatment rules are simple but crucial:

• for several weeks before a series of peels — no other strong exfoliation and no sun exposure,
• after the procedure — high SPF, no sauna or swimming pool,
• do not peel off flaking skin — this is a natural stage, and tearing it off risks hyperpigmentation and scarring.

Selected products for hyperpigmentation

Below is a list of proven preparations from the Mediderma, Sesderma, Mesoestetic, and estGen lines that we most often choose for hyperpigmentation and melasma — from home treatment to post-treatment care.

Mediderma Mela 360 Spot CorrectorLiposomal depigmenting serum for targeted reduction of spots and discoloration.299 PLNView Mediderma Nomelan C Post-TreatmentPost-treatment care after peels with brightening and regenerating components.166 PLNView Sesderma Azelac RU SerumFlagship serum with azelaic and tranexamic acid, suitable for year-round use.206 PLNView Sesderma C-VIT RadianceVitamin C in nanosomes — brightens and evens out skin tone.230 PLNView Mesoestetic Cosmelan 2At-home continuation of the Cosmelan therapy — maintains depigmentation results after the procedure.541 PLNView Mesoestetic Melan Tran3xCream with tranexamic acid for stubborn and hormonal discoloration.152 PLNView Mesoestetic AOX Ferulic20% Vitamin C and ferulic acid — antioxidant protection against photoaging.279 PLNView estGen Koncentrat melano STOPMelanogenesis inhibitors that stop melanin overproduction at the source.Price upon consultationView estGen Płyn melano STOPA multi-tasking preparation that modulates the formation of discoloration rather than just masking it.Price upon consultationView

Prices and availability are current at the J'adore Instytut shop — clicking leads to the product page.

At-home chemical peels vs. professional treatments — understanding the safety differences

Not all peels are created equal — and this isn't just marketing, but a real difference in what happens to the skin during the procedure. Products designed for home use and preparations used by a specialist in the clinic differ primarily in acid concentration, neutralization methods, and the depth of their action. These three variables determine why one peel can be applied at home in the evening before bed, while another requires the hands of a trained professional and the appropriate clinical environment.

At-home peels are designed with the safety of independent application in mind. Lower concentrations of active acids, well-thought-out buffering formulas, and clear instructions for use keep the risk of irritation, chemical burns, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation to a minimum — even if the client makes a minor application error. The effect of such exfoliation is gradual: the skin brightens and smooths out session by session, rather than after a single treatment. This is a deliberate approach — a home-use product is meant to provide a repeatable, predictable result without specialist supervision, so it is not designed to act aggressively.

A professional peel performed in a clinic is in a completely different league of intensity. A specialist works with higher acid concentrations that allow for deeper penetration into the epidermal layers, and sometimes even into the upper parts of the dermis. This depth of action provides a more visible and faster effect, but it also requires something that cannot be replaced by any label instruction — expertise. The person performing the treatment must assess the skin type and condition, select the appropriate concentration and application time, be aware of contraindications, and know how to recognize when a peel should be stopped or neutralized earlier than planned. They are responsible for post-treatment care — selecting protective preparations, sun protection, and the schedule of follow-up visits to ensure the skin regenerates properly and without complications.

The difference in safety, therefore, does not come down to the acid concentration on the label, but to the entire context surrounding the treatment — patient qualification, procedure monitoring, and post-treatment care. Home-use products, such as the Mediderma peels mentioned in this article, work great as part of a regular routine to maintain results and prepare the skin between visits. However, they do not replace a professional treatment — and trying to "chase" clinical results by using a home product more frequently than recommended by the manufacturer is one of the most common mistakes made by those seeking quick results.

This boundary is particularly critical when dealing with hyperpigmentation and melasma. Skin prone to melanin overproduction reacts to exfoliation differently than skin without such concerns — an improperly selected peel intensity, overly frequent treatments, or a lack of proper photoprotection can paradoxically exacerbate pigmentation rather than reduce it. Therefore, before beginning a more intensive acid treatment — whether in the form of a series of in-clinic procedures or a more advanced home-care program — it is worth consulting with a specialist. Such a conversation allows for an assessment of the type of pigmentation, the exclusion of contraindications, and the creation of a skincare plan where home peels and in-clinic treatments complement each other, rather than acting on the skin in a random or uncoordinated manner.

Frequently Asked Questions

Educational material — this does not replace a professional cosmetology consultation or medical advice. Medical peels and professional preparations should be used under the supervision of a specialist. Product and technology names are derived from Sesderma/Mediderma materials; data regarding nanosome penetration are manufacturer declarations. Sources: sesderma.com, mediderma.pl.